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Written in Stone tells the (mostly) true stories of the most groundbreaking ascents in rock climbing history. Hosted by Kris Hampton, you’ll hear the narrated, sound designed stories about what led to new levels in climbing, alternated with conversations with today’s top climbers about what inspired them about what went down way back then. Season One is focused on the 1990s, and will tell the stories of how sport climbing came to dominate, how women climbers made their mark, and explore the ...
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This is the podcast which interviews high performing individuals from the sporting, corporate, cultural world and beyond, who have been through adversity but come back stronger. Hosted by Emma Levy, who found a shift in her perspective on life following her diagnosis and subsequent treatment for breast cancer, she aims to explore and share other amazing stories with the ultimate goal of helping others deal with adversity, and inspire them to do great things.
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Zak Skinner is a a remarkable athlete who represented Team GB in the long jump and 100m at the Paralympic Games in Paris. Zak's journey is one of resilience and determination, shaped by his experiences growing up with a genetic condition that affects his vision, placing him in the T13 classification. In this episode, Zak shares his story, beginning…
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Andrea Spendolini-Sirieix is Britain's most successful female diver of all time recently winning a bronze Olympic medal in Paris in the 10m Synchro competition. At just 19 years old, Andrea has already achieved remarkable success as a Commonwealth, European, world and now Olympic medallist. I was lucky to speak to Andrea at The London Aquatic Centr…
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Remus Knowles runs https://climbing-history.org/ , and since he's a fan of the show, I asked him to come on and tell me which climbers and ascents we missed in Season 1. He showed up with a great list of climbers including Leo Houlding, Klem Loskot and more. I do my best to defend my choices, but Remus makes some great points. Become a Patron and g…
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Matt Samet is a legend of the climbing magazine world, having worked for Climbing, Rock & Ice and Alpinist as an editor, writer and general voice of credibility. Not everyone in the industry is core to the climbing lifestyle, but Matt definitely is. He loves this. In this episode we discuss the role of the magazines then and now, the demise of prin…
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In the final episode of this season, I reflect on the lessons learned and insights gained over the past year since the podcast's inception. Drawing from conversations with inspiring individuals who have overcome adversity, I share some key themes such as gratitude, mindset, goal setting, and human connection. From the importance of embracing vulner…
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Ricky is a former firefighter, mental health advocate, motivational speaker and poet. In 2017 Ricky was one of the first responders called to the fire at Grenfell Tower in London which tragically claimed the lives of 72 residents and injured many more. Following the Grenfell tragedy and as a result of the life changing decisions that Ricky made tha…
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Sometimes you need time away to realize what you were in the midst of. In this episode Kris reflects on the season, where the true cultural shifts in climbing came, and the lessons that climbers can take away from examining climbing history this way. Join the Secret Stoners Club for FREE. ---------------------------------- Thank you to our partner,…
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Dan is a serial entrepreneur, co-founder of Heights, a brain-care supplements company and host of leading business podcast ‘Secret Leaders.’ In this episode Dan discusses his experience with mental health issues, including depression, anxiety, and insomnia, and how he found relief through alternative methods like ayahuasca and focusing on brain car…
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Catherine Capon is a British naturalist and environmentalist. In this episode we discuss her journey through postnatal struggles and the creation of her wellness hub, Wild Up Slow Down. Catherine shares her experiences of overcoming adversity, finding balance as a mother, and redefining her identity. Join us as we delve into the importance of self-…
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When Henry Fraser endured a life changing spinal injury, he demonstrated immense courage and rather than give into his injuries – henry has grasped life with both hands achieving things beyond his wildest dreams. At age 17, whilst on holiday with his friends in Portugal – Henry dived into the sea and had a disastrous accident. In that moment his li…
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In this episode Steph Peltier, known as The Happiness Activator shares her journey from heartbreak and depression to finding signs of happiness that changed the trajectory of her life. We discuss the definition of happiness, the importance of mindset, and practical techniques to cultivate happiness in daily life. Steph explains the concept of happi…
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Mollie Pearce won the nation’s hearts on the BBC One reality show Traitors where she bravely talked about her disabilities which include limb difference and living with a stoma. During the podcast, Mollie shares her journey of being diagnosed with ulcerative colitis at a young age and eventually undergoing surgery to have a stoma bag. She discusses…
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Do you know 20% of the population are neurodiverse? That is why Ben Branson has made It his mission to educate the 80%. ‘The Hidden 20%’ – podcast and charity was developed following Ben’s recent diagnosis of Autism and ADHD. Ben is an inventor and entrepreneur, founding Seedlip; the world’s first distilled non-alcoholic spirit. In this episode we …
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Eva Lopez is one of the top Spanish climbers in history. While she is largely known as one of the world’s foremost researchers on training for climbing, she’s also a crusher. She was the 5th woman to to climb 8c and in 2013, at 42 years old, climbed her first 8c+, a route she bolted called Potemkin. In this episode, Eva and Kris discuss the state o…
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Basque superstar Josune Bereziartu first tied in as the 80’s were changing into the 90’s, after seeing a documentary showing two women climbing in the Verdon. Within those first few months of Josune learning to climb, Lynn Hill did the first 14a ever climbed by a woman. By the middle of the 90’s Josune became the 5th woman to equal the feat, which …
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Tom Daley is the most successful British diver ever – winning 4 Olympic medals throughout the course of his career – finally winning that elusive gold in Tokyo in 2021. This is Tom’s first podcast interview since returning to diving and in it he talks about what drove him to return to the sport after a two year break. We also discuss how alongside …
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Chris Schulte is a boulderer who is obsessed with the lines and shapes of climbing. He fell in love with Fontainebleau many years ago based on a photo of Fred Nicole climbing Karma and has cultivated a relationship with the forest and climbed many life-list boulders there. In this episode, Kris asks Chris to describe the forest in his poetic way, a…
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Vicky is a Professional Organiser – helping people to de-clutter and organise their homes. She is also a solo adoptive mum, passionate about sharing her story of adoption as a single parent. In this episode we discuss how Vicky manages her work-life balance as a single mum alongside running a busy, successful business ‘You need a Vicky’. We discuss…
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Throughout the 90s, Catherine Miquel was the undisputed queen of bouldering. Surprised you haven’t heard her name? I was too, but we aren’t alone. Not many of the people I’ve talked to know of her or her incredible resume. Climbing in Fontainebleau, she entered the decade as the only woman to climb V8, and then it was off to the races. Again and ag…
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Josie McKee is a climbing guide, former YOSAR member, all-around big wall super badass and a climbing coach through her company Mind Athlete. She’s climbed El Cap over 20 times, set several speed records, has free climbed damn near every Valley classic, and her Yosemite resume rivals just about anyone’s. In this episode, Josie walks Kris through ea…
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When Taylor's mum nearly died after a routine back surgery, his world came crashing down around him. He found that talking about how he felt significantly helped his mental health. So he started a podcast in his bedroom. Now, four years later and ‘The Waffle Shop Podcast’ is award winning, chart topping and truly a safe space for others to open up.…
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If you were following Chris Kalous and The Enormocast in the early days, then you are well aware that he’s climbed Freerider. And if you follow his new show, The Runout, you know how interested he is in the history of one specific pitch of The Free Salathe - Pitch 19 - the pitch that Alex Huber subverted by climbing the Monster Offwidth, thus layin…
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Lucy is not only an Oncologist working in a busy NHS hospital, but she is also a super athlete – being a fourteen times Ironman champion. On retirement in 2018 she didn’t hang up her running shoes like most people, but instead continued racing in Ultra, Extreme events. She is also the co-found of charity / community based initiative ‘5k your way, M…
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In 1998, Alex and Thomas Huber climbed the first ascent of Freerider on El Capitan in just over 15 hours. Their climb ushered in a new era of big wall free climbing, and there’s no question it was a hugely important moment in climbing history. But the way we credit it, most often simply to Alex Huber, ignores the rich history of the route. The Hube…
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Sara Davison is best known as ‘The Divorce Coach’. She is a multi-award winning Coach, twice best-selling author and podcast host of Heartbreak to Happiness. Sara’s interest and expertise in this area was born out of her own marriage breakdown and the trauma that that life event bought with it. In this episode we talk about how Sara managed the tra…
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Today, we're featuring a great conversation between our friend Ryan Devlin, host and creator of the Struggle Climbing Show and member of the Plug Tone Collective, and Jordan Cannon. In this bonus episode, Jordan takes us on the unbelievable adventure of tackling one of the toughest high-altitude big wall ascents in the world, the Cowboy Direct rout…
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In his book, Beyond the Summit, Todd Skinner wrote, “Mike Lilygren had a schoolboy face and Dennis the Menace hair, an irritatingly endless sense of humor, and a tinkerer’s mind for detail. He would turn into “the closer” on the expedition, the one who kept getting stronger as the burden increased, the keystone that bridged the way to the summit.” …
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Mark Ormrod MBE is a former Royal Marine, triple amputee, motivational speaker and athlete. Whilst serving in Afghanistan in 2007 he had a devastating injury after he knelt onto an Improvised Explosive Device, which resulted in the loss of both of his legs and his right arm. Mark joins us to tell us his moving story of not only becoming the first t…
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In 2023, Yosemite big wall free climbing ace Jordan Cannon joined Matt Segal and Jesse Huey on a trip to Pakistan to test their mettle against Trango Tower. Specifically, they were looking at the unrepeated Cowboy Direct, established in 1995 by Todd Skinner, Mike Lilygren, Bobby Model and Jeff Bechtel. In this episode, Kris and Jordan discuss the a…
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WOMEN SHOULD NOT DO INTERMITTENT FASTING; says Dr Stacy Sims - a world renowned physiologist, Nutrition scientist and applied researcher. In this episode Stacy discusses how Intermittent Fasting is NOT advisable for women, carbohydrates are NOT bad for women and that often women trying to lose body fat should consume MORE calories. As well as discu…
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In 1995, Todd Skinner began assembling a team for an audacious ascent in the Himalayan Karakoram. He’d been shown photos of a golden, rocket-ship-shaped tower that looked like it could be sitting in Yosemite, except it sat at 19,000 feet and was surrounded by some of the greatest mountains on earth. But he didn’t gather a team of experienced alpini…
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Jonathan Siegrist isn’t just one of America’s best and most prolific sport climbers, having climbed over 25 5.15’s. He’s also someone who thinks deeply about what climbing offers us, and works to make sure we stay on track. In this episode, Kris and Jonathan discuss one of the most controversial topics in climbing, grades. How grades come about, wh…
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Sir Trevor Phillips discusses the complexities of mental health, which he feels passionate about following the tragic death of his daughter Sushila in 2021, after a long battle with anorexia. Trevor is currently the presenter of Sky New’s flagship weekend program ‘Sunday Morning’. He is a businessman and journalist winning multiple awards over the …
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Seb Bouin is one of only three climbers who have climbed 5.15d (9c). Following in the footsteps of leading French climbers, he established his testpiece, DNA, in 2023 in the Verdon Gorge. It may not be a coincidence that this came shortly after his Vintage Rock Tour, in which he climbed all of the firsts in France from 7c+ to 9a+, including the fir…
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JJ Chalmers is a television presenter, former Royal Marine and Invictus Games medallist. In 2011 JJ suffered life changing injuries whilst on duty in Afghanistan. Despite the challenges he endures on a daily basis, due to his acquired disabilities, he has defied the odds and is now a successful broadcaster having presented on the Paralympic Games, …
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Fred Rouhling was a good climber, but 5.15b? At a time when 14d was the hardest grade, Fred suggested that his half boulder/half route hybrid, Akira, was much harder than any other climb on the planet. Not many people believed the quiet, usually reserved French climber. Many of the top pros at the time; Ben Moon, Jibe Tribout and Alex Huber, would …
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Nina Caprez is a weapon. Known as the ‘Swiss Machine’, and easily one of the most accomplished big wall free climbers on the planet, she had her eyes on freeing The Nose, and she had partnered up with none other than Lynn Hill. What could possibly stand in her way? The same thing that nearly stopped Lynn. Changing Corners. In this episode, Kris and…
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Sharmeen is a double Oscar award winning film director and journalist. She is also the the only female director to have been awarded two Academy Awards by the age of 37 and the first Pakistani to win an Oscar. Sharmeen has now been appointed as the Director of the new Star Wars film – making her the first female and person of colour to be given tha…
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Lauren Delaunay Miller is a climber, former YOSAR member, and award winning author of Valley of Giants: Stories from Women at the Heart of Yosemite Climbing. From her first moments in Yosemite Valley, hearing the stories of the inspiring women who not only climbed hard things but built the community, she knew that a book was necessary. She just did…
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In 2001, Chelsea Griffie topped out on Lurking Fear on the far left side of El Capitan and became the first black woman to climb the world famous formation. But she didn’t realize that until years later. She was just looking for things to challenge her. In this episode, Kris and Chelsea discuss the path of her climbing that led to El Cap, what bein…
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Bobbi Bensman was one of the most dominant competition climbers of the 1990s, winning the Phoenix Bouldering Contest 13 years in a row and 20 National Championships. She’s still going strong, adding every year to a 5.13 ticklist that’s now over 250 routes long. In this episode, Kris and Bobbi discuss her years as a competition climber, her greatest…
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Lynn Hill was looking for a different kind of progression. By the mid-1990’s climbing grades had skyrocketed, and Lynn was climbing harder and harder. But the difficulty wasn’t what drove her. She wanted adventure. Partnership. To push into the unknown. Something BIG. And there was one prize that had been talked about for decades with the air of a …
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Starting in the 80s, and extending well into the 90s, it seemed to be the French vs. The British for sport climbing supremacy. At the middle of this war of words and routes were Ben Moon and Jibe Tribout, and the greatest battles would play out at Buoux and Raven Tor, two of the most legendary crags of the era. Check out more here! Join the Secret …
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Alan Watts might have bolted the best routes of the 1980’s and 90s. Chain Reaction, To Bolt or Not To Be, Just Do It. He didn’t have a front row seat to the action - he was on the stage alongside Tribout and every other superstar who came to Smith Rock to try his routes. In this episode, Alan and Kris discuss Jibe Tribout and whether he was the vil…
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In November of 2018, at Smith Rock, Oregon, Adam Ondra made one of the most impressive onsights in the history of climbing. The first 14c in the US, Just Do It. 1990’s era technical testpieces don’t make for easy redpoints, more or less onsights, but Adam has made a point of trying to do just that as often as possible. And there’s no climber in the…
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Brash and bold, Jibe Tribout had a futuristic vision, and he was willing to Just Do It. Even if that meant flying around the world to try a route he’d been asked to stay off of. He wasn’t the most talented of the French superstar climbers. That title belonged to Patrick Edlinger or one of the Le Menestrel brothers. But he worked the hardest. He put…
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Merry Christmas! As a gift for listening and sharing the show, we’ve not only put together a massive list of climbing films from the 1990’s that you can watch right now for free, but we also decided to chat with Mike Call - one of the key figures in 1990’s hold shaping, innovation, and filmmaking. We hear about the shaping of The Boss and the early…
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Dorothea Karalus drove over 400 miles, repeatedly, over several years to repeat Fred Nicole’s classic V13 La Danse des Balrogs in Branson, Switzerland. Through the process, she discovered that happiness wasn’t sending - it was a separate thing - and maybe, just maybe, this is what allowed her passage on the boulder. In this episode, Kris asks Doro …
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Bjorn Pohl is a climbing journalist and podcaster who has covered climbing since the late 90’s, and has seen the impact of Fred Nicole on bouldering for the past 20 plus years. In this episode, Kris and Bjorn discuss Fred’s contributions, how he was also a top sport climber, the importance of hard repeats and Fred’s continued legacy. We also hear F…
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This is the 3rd and final instalment of this special Battle Cancer mini-series where for 3 episodes, you have heard from some incredible people involved in BC, including some inspirational cancer survivors who have benefited from the work that BC do. Today you are going to hear 3 different stories – first off is the incredible 19 year old Rob, who …
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