Ep 5: Albert Ok - Finding Meaning in Coaching Speed Climbing

That's Not Real Climbing

Thanks for tuning into the podcast! You may be familiar with Albert's old viral Youtube videos where he does deep-dive analyses into great comp climbing beta-break moments. Nowadays, he is spending more time working on his own training to hopefully make the USA national team, as well as working as a speed climbing coach (you're probably familiar with a lot of the speed athletes he works with!)

Guest links: https://instagram.com/professorok

https://youtube.com/@albertokay

Reference links:

First beta break episode

Albert commentating Chamonix speed finals 2023

Albert’s meme

Speed Climbing Relay Race

Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Introduction

2:52 - What got you into comp climbing?

6:39 - History of comp climbing + has it improved?

10:24 - The beta break Youtube series

14:37 - Copyright issues

20:13 - World cup afterparties

22:16 - Why speed climbing?

26:08 - The difficulties of accessing a speed wall

30:03 - Becoming a speed coach

39:28 - Coaching at the world cups - imposter syndrome

45:47 - Dealing with speed wall differences at different locations

50:42 - Why are countries like Indonesia so good at speed climbing?

52:33 - Speed climber intricacies

58:46 - Speed climbing in the Olympics

1:01:52 - The Salt Lake City vision

1:03:47 - Personal speed climbing pursuit

1:09:06 - Head to toe of injuries

1:16:32 - Discord Q: What stops people from getting into speed climbing?

1:17:56 - Discord Q: Did the 2020 combined format undermine acceptance of speed climbing?

1:19:54 - Discord Q: Do you know what the outcome of the athletes commission will be for speed?

1:22:59 - Discord Q: What's in the future for speed and formats?

1:25:41 - Discord Q: What was it like to rock climb with Akiyo Niguchi?

1:28:34 - Outro + where to find Albert