EP 236: Fundamentals — How to Train on a Spray Wall

The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 2 of 6) — In part 2, we share our top tips for training on spray walls and home walls. We cover training setup considerations, route setting tips, best apps for saving and sharing climbs, mastering benchmark climbs, how to iterate on your climbs for incremental progress, hacks for building a home wall on a budget, and more.

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-s2-part-2

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:20) – Best spray walls

(00:05:46) – Terrain drives technique

(00:08:00) – Choosing a wall angle

(00:10:07) – Jesse’s Tip #1: Home wall setup considerations (Use a mix of good and bad holds, a mix of textures, complement your local area, etc.)

(00:13:05) – Steven’s Tip #1: Build yourself a repertoire of quality climbs, and try to master them

(00:17:45) – Bonus Tip: Cluster holds to build skills and learn movement

(00:19:12) – Bonus Tip: Iterate on your climbs for incremental progression

(00:24:52) – Jesse’s Tip #2: Supercharge your sessions with route setting

(00:27:59) – Steven’s Tip #2: Work on climbs that are hard for different reasons

(00:28:57) – Bonus Tip: Set chaotically (i.e. Set boulders without trying the moves, and try not to tweak them)

(00:33:17) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Do not underestimate the value of a short session on a home wall

(00:35:52) – Steven’s Tip #3: Circuits!

(00:40:13) – Jesse’s Tip #4: Make wood holds to save money

(00:43:27) – Steven’s Tip #4: Set foot moves

(00:49:23) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Always trying new stuff and having crap sessions

(00:52:08) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Not having the right mix of holds for the skill level

(00:54:33) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Not keeping track of your sessions

(00:55:51) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Not stopping when you power down (i.e. climbing too much and getting injured)

(00:57:40) – Sandbagging on spray walls, and trusting your eyes

(00:59:42) – Steven’s Pitfall # 3: Only having big blobby footholds

(01:02:03) – Steven’s Pitfall #4: Not making your home wall cool (plus tips for building a cool home wall on a budget)

(01:07:32) – Quantum leaps