A podcast about high level climbing. How to go from Good to Great. Hosted by Joshua Horsley.
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High-impact interviews for those who love adventure and the outdoors. Host and journalist Shelby Stanger interviews world-class explorers, athletes, authors, scientists, health experts and entrepreneurs about how they’ve taken their own wild ideas and made them a reality, so you can too. Some of the wildest ideas can lead to the most rewarding adventures.
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I thought I'd ramble at you for a few minutes each morning, trying to figure out what I'm doing for the day, instead of just talking to myself! This is a work in progress!
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Factor Two is a climbing podcast with impact, brought to you by Wil Treasure and UKClimbing.com. It brings you the best climbing stories straight from the people at their heart - and the best climbing stories are always about a little bit more than just climbing. https://www.factortwo.co.uk
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Join host Kevin Riley for in-depth interviews with the pillars of the rock-climbing community. We’ll be speaking with athletes, writers and photographers, industry VIPS, and, of course, the Climbing editorial staff to discuss breaking news and the pressing issues of the day. Whether you’re an elite alpinist, a recreational sport climber, a die-hard trad climber, or a vFun boulderer—this podcast is for you.
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Welcome to 'The Bad Beta Podcast;, a show where rock climbers talk about the controversial issues that the climbing industry doesn't want you to know. Mostly, we argue about Sport vs. Trad. Visit www.badbetapodcast.com for more.
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Hosted by Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a weekly conversation with rock climbing's best and brightest. Pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community offer their experiences with training for climbing, the best diet for climbing, and their personal stories with climbing. Whether you're a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you'll learn something new from these conversations.
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Social media star, adventurer, video creator, environmentalist and proud Guamanian Farron Taijeron brings you his amazing life!
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I'm Patrick Avenell, the man behind CompletePatrick.com. I hope you enjoy my podcasts on music, TV, film, sport, pop culture and more besides!
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#122 Hamish McArthur — His Surprising Path To Olympic Success, The Right Kind of Motivation, BTS at Paris 2024, Advice To Young Hamish, and Handling Danger and Death
1:45:25
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If you watched the Paris Olympics then you remember Hamish McArthur’s stand out performance to secure an incredible 5th place finish. Hamish had already stood atop World Cup podiums and won Youth Worlds, but his Olympic showing was a clear level up. In this episode Hamish shares what changed for him in the year leading up to the Olympics and how it…
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Angelina Huang is a former Team USA figure skater who made the bold decision to retire from the sport at just 18 years old. After taking a step back to reconnect with herself, Angelina found a new passion—wild ice skating, where her love for the ice was reignited by the beauty of natural landscapes around the world. Connect with Angelina: Website I…
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#121 Matt Fultz — BIG MOVES small crimps, Long Term Projecting, Video Analysis, Hardest Board Climbs, Throwing Away His Scale, and How He Coaches on OTG
1:51:26
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You’ve heard of Matt Fultz, but you may not realize just how amazing Matt is. He’s climbed eight V16’s. 8. Eight! By the way, two of them are rarely repeated and recognized as some of the hardest in the world (Hypnotized Minds and Big Z). He’s FA’d 7 climbs V15 and up, including 2 V15’s in one day!! We’re pretty sure that’s a world’s first, but who…
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Telling Jokes on the Trail with Matt Lyons
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Comedian Matt Lyons— trail name Schmutz— is a thru-hiker who makes a living poking fun at outdoor enthusiasts. With a sharp wit and countless trail miles under his belt, Matt brings humor to everything from gear obsessions to the unpredictable mishaps of wilderness life. Connect with Matt: Instagram & TikTok Website Thank you to our sponsors: Capit…
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#120 Alvaro Rangel — Coaching Team USA at the Olympics, Not Saying ‘Strong’, The Most Important Skill, Making Finals vs Semi’s, Case Studies, and The Future of Comp Climbing
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Alvaro Rangel, Al, is back on the podcast after 2+ years! Al was one of the first guests and one of the best. The last podcast we did was incredible, but somehow Al managed to top it with today’s episode. He is the founder and head coach of Team Class 5 in San Diego, CA. Al is also part of the Team USA coaching staff and supports the team at World …
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Becoming a Wildlife Pilot with Denise Joi
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Denise Joi is a wildlife pilot and conservationist who’s taken her passion for the outdoors to the skies. Denise works alongside biologists to research, survey, and transport species in an effort to protect biodiversity. Her job is incredibly challenging and takes a lot of planning. But for Denise, it is beyond worth it. Connect with Denise: Instag…
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#119 Melina Costanza — Elite Mental Training and Performance, Look Good Feel Good Play Good, Getting Hooked on The Outdoors, and The Nuances of Eating As a Top Athlete
2:23:34
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Melina Costanza is an 8x US National Champion. Sometimes as a youth, sometimes as a collegiate, sometimes in Open, sometimes in bouldering, sometimes in lead, sometimes both. Yes, last year at Open Nationals (2023) she won both Bouldering and Lead. She is set to compete in the 2024 Open Nationals coming up in a week, so after you listen to this pod…
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Learning to Surf Pipeline with Jade Darmawangsa
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At 19, Jade Darmawangsa took on the wild challenge of surfing Pipeline—the most iconic and dangerous wave on the planet. There were two major obstacles: she didn't know how to surf, and she couldn’t swim. Connect with Jade: Website Instagram TikTok YouTube Thank you to our sponsors: Capital One: Check out the REI Co-op Mastercard program and learn …
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#118 Ward Byrum — Setting Climbs For Tens of Thousands of Climbers, What Makes A Climb Good, Indoor vs Outdoor Grades, and What A ‘Testpiece’ is at Movement Gyms
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Ward Byrum is the Director of Routesetting for all Movement gyms in the East Region. Yes, that Movement. The biggest climbing gym chain in America and probably the world. That means that Ward and his team decide what the climbing will be like for thousands of climbers. Scratch that, ten’s of thousands of climbers. It might even be hundreds of thous…
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Ski Mountaineering Through the Backcountry with Eric Carter
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Eric Carter is an alpine athlete and endurance coach who discovered the niche sport of ski mountaineering, or "skimo," and never looked back. Skimo involves skiing uphill in the backcountry and riding the slope back down. Eric also founded Ridgeline Athletics, where he helps mountain athletes chase their own wild outdoor adventures. Connect with Er…
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#117 Tom Randall — How Fit Climbers Get Strong and Strong Climbers Get Fit, Founding Lattice Training and How It’s Evolved, Why Recovery On Route Is So Important, and What Separates the Good from the Great ...
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Tom Randall is an iconic climber and founder. You might know him as one of the Wide Boyz, as one of the founders of Lattice Training, as a high level coach, or for his 5.14 Trad FA’s or even his FA of the worlds hardest crack boulder, aptly named “The Kraken” [V13]. Ya, Tom’s done it all, and has helped the best in the world do it even better. In t…
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Inspiring Climate Action with Lauren Bash
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Lauren Bash is an environmentalist and storyteller who breaks down the complexities of climate change in an inspiring, accessible way. She empowers people with simple, actionable steps to create a healthier environment—and ultimately, a healthier world. Connect with Lauren: Website Instagram TikTok If you enjoyed this episode: Listen to Uncovering …
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#116 David Fitzgerald — A Big Zeason [V16], Lucid Dreaming [V15+], His Breakthrough On How To Approach Hard Projects, Creating Hits with Highpoint Productions, and Editing 101
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David Fitzgerald is back after an absolutely incredible season. Dave was previously on for Testpiece Episode #55, a total fan favorite. Last season Dave had a list of climbs in different styles to tackle. Tierrany, a V14 endurance bloc in Yosemite. Equanimity, a V15 ultra tech testpiece in Tahoe. Lucid Dreaming, the V15+ straight forward power prob…
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Exploring Blue Zones with Dan Buettner
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For the last 20 years, researcher and journalist, Dan Buettner has been studying the happiest, healthiest people on earth. In 2003, Dan started exploring Blue Zones— regions where people live longer than average, many living to be over 100. His work has revealed that by living in places that encourage healthy habits, living a long fruitful life is …
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#115 Garrett Gregor — Olympic Head Routesetter, BTS of Elite Competitive Setting, Grades of the Olympic Climbs, and Do Setters Control the Outcome?
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Garrett Gregor was the head routesetter for the Paris Olympics boulders! That’s all you need to know. Just stop reading this description and start listening now. Garrett is also an accomplished competitor, placing as high as 4th at Nationals, an experienced coach at the legendary Team ABC, and did we mention he’s an elite routesetter?! IFSC Level 5…
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Redefining Outdoor Media with Dani Reyes-Acosta
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Dani Reyes-Acosta is a runner, a snowboarder, a climber, and a filmmaker who is intentional about the why behind her adventures. She’s currently in the middle of making her first independent film series, called OUTLIER. The series tells the stories of boundary breaking Latina athletes as they explore their own identities and the great outdoors. Dan…
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#114 Tyler Nelson — How Personal Morphology Affects Climbing Performance, Specificity, Unlevel Edges, Talon Grip, and Tim Gabbett’s Paradox
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Dr. Tyler Nelson is the founder of Camp 4 Human Performance, a company focused on bringing the principles of sport science to climbing. Tyler is focused on being a cutting edge resource for training and rehabilitation of climbers. This means he is always knee deep in research papers from all sorts of sports and asking how we might apply those lesso…
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Climbing El Capitan at 8-Years-Old with Joe & Sam Evermore
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Joe and Ann Evermore live in Colorado and they take wild parenting to a whole new level. Their kids are five, eight and 10, and each of them is a skilled hiker and rock climber. In 2022, their oldest son Sam became the youngest person to climb El Capitan via rope ascent. Connect with Sam & Joe: Website Instagram If you enjoyed this episode: Listen …
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#113 Kevin Brown — Literally Everything Your Ever Wanted To Know About Chalk, Founding Friction Labs, Skin Farming, and How To Make Sure You Are Getting The Best Friction On Holds
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This is the episode to learn everything about one of, if not the, most important parts of our climbing kit — chalk! The real topic here is how to maximize friction between your hands and the holds, which is crucial for sending your hardest. Kevin Brown joins the pod and goes deep on the science of how to get the best friction on holds. He talks abo…
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Camping, Fishing, and Cooking Outdoors with Taku Kondo
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Taku Kondo makes delicious meals outside with ingredients that he forages or catches in the wild. He documents his cooking creations on his YouTube channel, Outdoor Chef Life, which features videos of Taku harvesting the ingredients and preparing meals back at camp. Connect with Taku: Outdoor Chef Life YouTube channel Website Instagram Jocelyn & Ta…
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#112 Paris 2024 Olympics — Professional Climber and Coach Tim Kang on The Results, The Routesetting, The Grades, and The Future of Competitions
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Professional climber, coach, routesetter, and frequent Testpiece podcast guest, Tim Kang, is on the pod this week to share his thoughts about the Paris 2024 Olympics. Tim may be best known for his highball ascents that culminated in the film Focus, but Tim is also a seasoned competition climber with multiple World Cups under his belt. Tim loves com…
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Guiding Communities Outdoors with Cheyenne Smith
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Cheyenne Smith is a multifaceted, adventurer and outdoor guide. She skis, rock climbs, highlines, and leads climbing trips for women of color with a nonprofit called Women's Wilderness. Her guiding style focuses on building community and teaching others to be present and intentional when they're in the wild. Connect with Cheyenne: Website Instagram…
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#111 Tom O’Halloran — How To Do Hard Moves, Using Boards To Climb Better Outside, Toes Knees Hips, Taping Correctly, and What The Olympics Are Like
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Tom O’Halloran is arguably the best climber in Australia. He’s an Olympian, he’s climbed 15a and v14, and done FA’s nearly up to those grades as well. But the reason we wanted to have him on the podcast is because of the amazing YouTube content he puts out. He dives into the nuances of hard climbing in a way that actually helps people climb hard. T…
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Baking Cakes on Glaciers with Rose McAdoo
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Rose McAdoo is trained baker and culinary artist who makes “science desserts” — four tiered cakes or sparkling lollipops that she uses to explain complex environmental concepts. The best part, Rose creates these culinary masterpieces in the wild. She has whipped up desserts at the edges of glaciers, on volcanoes, and in caves and deserts. Each swee…
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#110 Ethan Salvo — Lessons From Climbing The Hardest Climb in Squamish [TWICE?!], Internal Vs External Motivations, and Transcending Grades
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Ethan Salvo is back on the podcast! Ethan's first episode (linked here) was a fan favorite so when Josh visited Squamish for a few days they met up do an impromptu live/in-person recording. Since the last recording, Ethan has climbed arguably the hardest climb in Squamish, The Singularity. The experience he had on it was fascinating and made him qu…
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Rock Climbing for Parkinson's with Molly Cupka
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Molly Cupka is a climber and founder of the organization Up Ending Parkinson's, a nonprofit that teaches people with Parkinson's disease to rock climb. Parkinson's is the second most common neurological disease behind Alzheimer's and rock climbing provides a ton of health benefits including balance, grip strength, and mental acuity. For the climber…
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#109 Noah & Benn Wheeler — The World’s Hardest Campus Move, Most Difficult Board Climbs, FA’ing V12 On 1st Day Outdoors, and How This Generation Sees The Future
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Noah Wheeler and Benn Wheeler represent the next generation of climbers. At 21 and 19, they are some of the strongest board climbers in the world and their styles reflect that. They also are bring a unique point of view to the world of climbing content with their YouTube channel, Wheel Rock. These brothers have climbed up to V16 outdoors, FA’d up V…
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Biking Through the Backcountry with Kait Boyle
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Kait Boyle is an elite adventure cyclist who bikes over mountains, across deserts, and through canyons. Early on in her cycling career, Kait found her niche, falling in love with races in the 24 hour 300 mile range. In 2018, a serious accident turned Kait's life upside down and changed her perspective on the path she's carved. Connect with Kait: In…
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#108 AJ [Alex Johnson] — 20 Years At The Top, The Evolution Of Climbing, Coaching Top Athletes, Climbing Drills, and Returning From A Major Injury
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AJ has been competing at the highest level for decades. She has won multiple Bouldering World Cups and she climbs just as hard outdoors with her iconic send of The Swarm (v13/14) in Bishop which was recently featured in Reel Rock. AJ also coaches some of the top up and coming Youth Athletes (one of her athletes recently won Nationals), through her …
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Establishing National Parks in Patagonia with Kristine Tompkins
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Kristine Tompkins is one of the world's most successful conservationists. She's the president and co-founder of Tompkins Conservation, which is a non-profit that purchases land in South America, largely in Patagonia to create national parks, boost regenerative economies, and bring back missing species through rewilding. Before dedicating her life t…
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#107 Drew Ruana — Thinking Long Term, Grading The Hardest Blocs, Working Weaknesses, 3 Common Plateaus and How to Get Through Them
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Drew Ruana is one of the strongest boulders in the world. Period. He over a hundred V14+ sends, and lots of then are V16. While some other climbers may have that amount of blocs under their belt, no one has accumulated this many in such a short time. Drew goes into his infamous “Send Colorado” journey, which is his goal to send all V14 and up bould…
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Trail Running with a Blade with Zach Friedley
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Zach Friedley is a professional athlete who is changing the sport of trail running. Zach was born without most of his right leg, and is often the only adaptive athlete at the starting line of some of the world’s hardest races. There aren’t a lot of running events with categories specifically for adaptive athletes, but Zach is on a mission to change…
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#106 Felipe Camargo — An Unlikely Path To The Top, Finding Mentors, Training Hard By Yourself, Establishing Next Level Routes in Brazil, and Giving Back
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Felipe Camargo is one of the top climbers in our sport with sends up to 9b and V15. That’s impressive… But what’s more impressive is that he began climbing Brazil where there was no professional climbers, no routes past 8b+, and no modern training facilities. Felipe managed to send the iconic 50m 9a+ Papichulo by mainly training on a 3x3m spray wal…
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Camping Tips for Your Next Adventure with Lestarya Molloy
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Lestarya Molloy is the founder of Fridie Outdoors, an app that has easy, digestible camping tips that you can access from anywhere. In this episode, Lestarya is joined by REI's Green Vests and Experience Guides to share the best tips for your upcoming camping adventure. Connect with Lestarya: Fridie Outdoors website & Instagram Download the Fridie …
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